By Anatoli Boukreev
Contributor note: Galen A. Rowell (Foreword)
Publish yr note: First released 2001
When Anatoli Boukreev died at the slopes of Annapurna on Christmas day, 1997, the realm misplaced one of many maximum adventurers of our time.
In Above the Clouds, either the fellow and his magnificent climbs on Mt. McKinley, K2, Makalu, Manaslu, and Everest-including his diary entries at the notorious 1996 catastrophe, written presently after his return-are immortalized. There are also minute technical information about the ability of climbing, in addition to own reflections on what lifestyles capacity to an individual who dangers it on a daily basis. totally illustrated with beautiful colour images, Above the Clouds is a special and breathtaking examine the area from its such a lot distant peaks.
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Extra resources for Above the Clouds: The Diaries of a High-Altitude Mountaineer
The first eight expeditions to Everest were British, all of which attempted the mountain from the northern, Tibetan, side—not so much because it presented the most obvious weakness in the peak’s formidable defenses but rather because in 1921 the Tibetan government opened its long-closed borders to foreigners, while Nepal remained resolutely off limits. The first Everesters were obliged to trek 400 arduous miles from Darjeeling across the Tibetan plateau simply to reach the foot of the mountain.
The Garuda has long been popular with expeditions bound for the Himalaya, and its walls were covered with signed photographs of famous alpinists who’d slept there over the years: Reinhold Messner, Peter Habeler, Kitty Calhoun, John Roskelley, Jeff Lowe. Ascending the stairs to my room I passed a large four-color poster titled “Himalayan Trilogy,” depicting Everest, K2, and Lhotse—the planet’s highest, second-highest, and fourth-highest mountains, respectively. Superimposed against the images of these peaks, the poster showed a grinning, bearded man in full alpine regalia.
Like most of his peers, he sought funding from corporate sponsors to pay for his expensive Himalayan expeditions. And he was savvy enough to understand that the more attention he got from the news media, the easier it would be to coax corporations to open their checkbooks. As it happened, he proved to be extremely adept at getting his name into print and his mug on the telly. ” In 1988, a guide from Auckland named Gary Ball became Hall’s primary climbing partner and closest friend. * With Everest, the most difficult of the septet, already taken care of, Hall and Ball wangled backing from a big electrical utility, Power Build, and were on their way.